Combine garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, yogurt, cardamom, salt and pepper in shallow glass or ceramic dish. Stir well. Add chicken and turn to coat it all over. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours or as long as overnight.

Prepare charcoal or gas grill. Thread chicken onto metal skewers, dividing pieces evenly among them. Grill over medium-high heat, turning skewers at least twice, until chicken is cooked through, about 6 minutes in all.

If using garlic paste, brush on each skewer just before removing from fire.

Garlic paste: In blender or mini processor, pulse together 20 peeled cloves of garlic and 1/2 teaspoon salt until garlic is minced. Add 2 teaspoons of Greek-style strained yogurt and pulse until incorporated. With motor running, pour in 1/3 cup olive oil in a steady stream until mixture forms a paste. Add 1 tablespoon lemon juice and pulse a few more times. Serves 6-8.

From "The Arab Table," by May S. Bsisu (William Morrow)

You can buy zaatar, a wild thyme-based herb mixture, at Middle Eastern grocers or online at www.penzeys.com (or at the store in St. Louis). Most blends contain sumac. To make your own blend, try this combination I found several years ago on the Internet. It does not call for sumac, which is difficult to find.

ZAATAR

2 teaspoons ground oregano

2 tablespoons ground thyme

2 teaspoons whole dried oregano

2 teaspoons ground savory

2 teaspoons ground marjoram

1/2 teaspoon whole-leaf dried marjoram

1/2 cup sesame seeds, lightly toasted

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

Finely grated zest of 2 lemons

In a small bowl, combine all ingredients. Store in an airtight container for up to two months.

From www.bread-bakers.com cook